by Tania Skrapaliori
Summer in Athens, in recent years, has begun to resemble the archetypal cauldron so vividly conjured in the lyrics of Xylina Spathia and in Oikonomidis’ brooding “Spirtokouto”. A boiling pot of heat, choked with ever-expanding concrete, rivers of multicolored car metal coursing through the city’s arteries, apartment blocks, dust, and steadily rising temperatures. The precious green lungs of the city are slowly disappearing. Behind the new tourist façade, the bright summer postcards of the Acropolis, Plaka, and fabricated urban Edens, many long-time residents feel the truth of the lyric: “The day fades / Athens, you’re a furnace”.
Further along in the same song, Xylina Spathia pose a challenge: who will endure? A question not unlike the daily game of survival played by those working through the Athenian summer, especially those with few vacation days, or employed in the hospitality industry, where Sundays and holidays are as distant as mirages. One of the most cherished weapons in this seasonal battle is the much-needed plunge into the sea after work. A brief but vital communion with the coast.
It’s not uncommon to see Athenians begin their summer mornings with a beach bag already stashed in the trunk, especially now, when even a modest Sunday beach outing feels like a rare luxury, rendered impractical by traffic and fatigue. Those who opt for weekday afternoons instead wager on finding fewer crowds, and more often than not, they win. Even just an hour or two at a nearby Attic beach can offer something invaluable: a moment of peace, a breath of freedom.
One of the most beloved spots for these after-hours escapes is the idyllic chain of coves known as Limanakia in Vouliagmeni. A timeless favorite among locals -and increasingly among tourists- they lie just far enough from the city to feel remote, yet close enough to reach without great effort. With their jagged cliffs and turquoise waters, Limanakia have also long been a sanctuary for naturists, drawn to their wild, unpolished beauty.
A little further along the coast lies Kavouri, offering a kind of cult summer retreat. In recent years, the city’s buzz has crept closer, spilling down from the trendy neighborhoods of the southern suburbs. But Kavouri remains a magnet for large groups of friends, who stay until late or take moonlit swims under the warm Attic night sky.
To the east, the coastlines of Eastern Attica remain a steadfast summer refuge for the north’s white-collar crowd. As soon as the last email is sent and laptops are shut, major roads like Kifissias and Mesogeion (depending on the mood of the day or the stars) lead drivers toward coastal escapes like Porto Rafti and Keratea. On a good day, someone from the northern suburbs can reach Avlaki or Erotospilia in Porto Rafti in the same time it might take them to get home to the city center. Erotospilia, with its raw natural beauty and crystal waters, has become so popular in recent years that it’s nearly unreachable on weekends. The same can be said for the crowned jewel of Attica’s beaches -the legendary K.A.P.E. in Sounio, which more than earns its reputation.
In Keratea, the beach of Kakia Thalassa is a trusty classic for those craving a dose of old-school Athenian seaside charm, even if only for a few hours. Meanwhile, the quiet coastal village of Daskaleio, with its small, scenic harbors, offers the closest thing to an island atmosphere without leaving the Attica basin.
Heading northeast into the Municipality of Marathonas, Zoumberi stands out as one of the easiest, most satisfying destinations for a long seaside afternoon. The experience is often capped with dinner at a local fish taverna or a drink at Indianos, one of Attica’s best and most honest beach bars. On weekdays especially, Indianos becomes something even more special, evoking once again the spirit of an island getaway.
For those willing to venture farther, especially if work ends early and there’s time for a longer drive, places like Sesi (just past Grammatiko, still within Marathonas) reward the effort. With its remarkably clean waters and enduring tranquility, Sesi can make even the most harried Athenian forget the city’s chaos. In Dikastika, near Schinias, lovers of more rugged, rocky shores are treated to one of the most captivating sunsets in Attica, looking out over the Euboean Gulf.
And if you’re already going to drive an hour, why not go all in? A weekday escape to the west, to the undeniably gorgeous Psatha, can be pure delight, a peaceful antidote to the weekend crowds that descend upon it.
At the end of the day, if there’s one thing that unites these working swimmers, who return on summer evenings with salt still in their hair and the radio humming familiar tunes, it’s this: the quiet joy of having stolen a moment by the sea. In a city washed in sunlight and embraced by water, they chose, however briefly, to break away from their desks and claim it.
