By YANNIS NENES photo:TASOS ANESTIS

While Greece is faithful to what people associate with it – summertime, spotless beaches, turquoise waters – these are only some of the treasures it has to offer, and the capital city is no exception. Athens has been an epicenter of history and culture for millennia, and it’s crucial to get a sense of its spirit during your stay. It is a place of contrasts that has something to offer everyone. Find ‘joie de vivre’ in every busy street, but also witness all that this city has overcome – there is truly no other place where the coexistence of the past and present is so potent. Below, we’ve listed some of our “ABC” s’ of Athens: insider information for your perusal before you fully immerse yourself in this ancient metropolis.

ATHENS Athens might look poor in aspects but there is a sexy vibe in it. Industrial spaces have turned into art venues, performance studios, places where much is happening. The hype is art and emerging artists are fleeing from all over Europe.

ANAFIOTIKA Tucked away beneath the Acropolis lies the picturesque neighborhood of Anafiotika. A maze of whitewashed houses with colorful doors and bougainvillea cascading from balconies, it feels like a little piece of the Cycladic islands right in the heart of Athens.

BEAD BRACELETS Bead bracelets or rosaries are very popular, especially among younger men and tourists. Places like Greece, Turkey, and Italy have a strong tradition of handcrafted jewelry, and bead bracelets are a part of that. Bracelets might opt for simpler styles like evil eye bracelets with a blue eye charm for protection against negativity, macrames made with natural fibers or leather bands.

BOUZOUKIA Lively tavern music venues. It used to be the ultimate Greek night-out. Nowdays is all about large music stages, whiskey & flowers thrown to the singer – don’ t ask why. Younger Greeks, now, prefer big concerts of tribal, balkan, ethnic beat. There is no breaking of plates anymore unless you are in a touristic bait tavern where they want to impress you with this well-known cliché of Greek “kefi”.

BREAKING PLATES Smashing plates for good luck is a tradition, though mostly limited to celebrations like weddings or bouzoukia nights. It likely originated from the Ottoman era when breaking expensive things was a display of wealth.

BROKEN PAVEMENTS & slope warning Don’t expect properly conserved pavements and roads. So put on your sneakers instead of high heels!

CINEMA UNDER THE STARS Athenians are outdoor cinema enthusiasts! Catch a movie under the summer sky for a unique cinematic experience.

CROSS Older people will cross themselves when passing a church. It’s a common gesture for good luck. Notice many taxi drivers do it too.

DRIVERS Athens drivers can be a bit aggressive and a bit lax. They may change lanes abruptly without warning or drive slowly, often while talking on their phones. Following the street signs is something of a weak character. Whether you’re behind the wheel or on foot, stay alert.

DERTI “An unrelenting sense of loss or unfulfilled desire”. It’s a word to describe the feeling you get after a heartbreak, a sentiment Greeks love to sing about. Remember, “drama” is also a greek word.

DRUGS In 2017, Greece legalized the use of cannabis for medical purposes. Since 2018, pharmaceutical companies can cultivate cannabis for medical use. Possession, use, and sale of cannabis for recreational purposes remain illegal. Penalties can range from fines to imprisonment, depending on the quantity involved. Smoking cannabis in public places is prohibited.

EATING in Athens never fails to please It’s a street food heaven in abundance and deliciousness.
Highlights: Gyros, the iconic Greek street food. Mediterranean medley, fresh & flavorful. There’s always a history on a plate and there’s a wonderful fusion of traditional and modern greek cuisine.

EVZONES Evzones, (meaning the “well-belted” elite soldiers, a term traced in Homer’s times) are the guards of the former Royal Palace. In Syntagma square, you can take your picture next to them and see if they blink. Every so often they do a little march to break the monotony of standing still all day and at 6pm you can watch the changing of the guards. Just make sure that you do not stand in their way; they are not allowed to stop for any reason-instead, they can march-kick the obstacles with their pompom shoes.

FOUSTANELLA Often compared to a kilt, is a key element of the traditional uniform for the Evzones Presidential Guard in Greece. It’s more than just clothing; it’s a symbol steeped in history and national identity. Worn by revolutionary fighters, it became associated with bravery and resistance against Ottoman rule. King Otto of Greece (1832-1862) adopted the fustanella as part of the official court costume, further solidifying its national significance. The Evzones Presidential Guard adopted the fustanella as their official uniform in 1868. Made from up to 30 meters (98 feet) of white cotton, the fustanella features around 400 pleats. Traditional pleated kilt that comes of the 19th century. It is worn by,

FRAPPE SOCIETY Frappe coffee is the lifeblood of Greek society. Made with instant Nescafe mixed with water, ice, milk and lots of sugar, a frappe will provide you with the right amount of caffeine for your coffee break, and the right buzz to sip while gossiping and people watching. Now entries are the fredoccino, the frapuccino and everything as long as it’s cold and long to drink. Third wave coffee is also a great preference especially among young people who hang out in new and established specialty coffee shops.

GREEK COFFEE Greek coffee is a strong, bold brew made with finely ground coffee beans typically boiled in a small pot called a briki. Unlike filtered coffee, the grounds settle at the bottom of the cup, creating a thick and rich consistency. Preparing Greek coffee is almost a ritual. The slow brewing process and the formation of a light foam on top (called kaimaki) add to the experience. Traditionally served black, some enjoy Greek coffee with sugar added before brewing for varying levels of sweetness.

GREEK COFFEE FORTUNE TELLING Fortune telling in the grounds of the coffee. After finishing the coffee, some like to turn the cup upside down and interpret the leftover grounds for fortune-telling. There’s no one specific group or person designated as the official “readers” of Greek coffee grounds. The practice of tasseography, which is fortune-telling using tea leaves or coffee grounds, is more about personal interpretation and tradition.

HONEY Athens offers a delicious opportunity to experience the unique taste of Greek honey. Greece boasts a diverse range of honey flavors thanks to its varied flora. Thyme, pine, citrus blossom, and wildflower honeys are some popular options you’ll find in Athens. Explore specialty food stores and farmers’ markets. Look for shops with a focus on local and artisanal products. Some restaurants in the city incorporate local honey into their dishes and desserts, offering a delightful way to experience its versatility. Keep an eye out for honey-infused soaps, cosmetics, and even liquors for unique souvenirs.

HORIATIKI SALATA The classic Greek salad featuring tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, olives, feta cheese, and olive oil. A refreshing and essential part of any Greek meal.

INTERNET Greece has 3G, 4G+ 5G mobile broadband and Satellite Internet access. Greece also has an extensive fiber optic network throughout the country. Most cafes and restaurants offer free Wi-Fi. Ask for the password.

IT IS A SMOKER’S PARADISE Smoking is very popular in Greece and still relatively cheap compared to the rest of Europe. Still, it’s completely prohibited in all enclosed public spaces, including restaurants, cafes, bars, nightclubs, workplaces, public transport, and government buildings. Smoking is generally allowed in outdoor spaces, like sidewalks, streets, and open-air cafes.

JEWELRY SHOPS Everywhere! Greek men don’t wear so much gold like the Italians do. Except maybe, a golden cross their mama gave to them 30 years ago! Greek women love jewels but, most of all, tourists love handcrafted gold since it is inexpensive in Greece but also for its high quality and excellent craftsmanship.

KAVSOHNAS You’ll frequently hear “καύσωνας” mentioned in weather forecasts and news reports during hot summer periods in Greece. It is a crucial word for understanding and discussing heatwaves in Greece. It’s a widely used term across weather forecasts, news reports, and everyday conversations.

KEFI/KEFIA While “kefi” can be translated as happiness, it goes deeper. It’s a full-bodied experience that encompasses joy, excitement, enthusiasm, and a sense of liberation.

KIOSKS “Periptero” is a small kiosk that serves as a neighborhood convenience store. But “periptera” are more than just kiosks; they’re a vital part of Athenian life. They offer convenience, local interaction, and a window into the city’s daily rhythm. Some of them even stay open 24/7.

KOULOURI Walking around the city, you will spot some men selling this kind of bagel, round pastry coated in sesame seeds. It’s the most healthy snack you can find for a relatively small price (maximum €2,5). It’s the handy breakfast for most greeks, along with the morning coffee.

MALAKA “Malaka” literally translates to “wanker” or “jerk off” in English. This is its most vulgar and offensive meaning. It can take on a wide range of meanings depending on context, tone, and relationship between the speaker and listener. It can be used to express mild frustration, similar to “damn” or “shoot” in English. Among friends or family, “malaka” can be used playfully or affectionately, almost like a friendly jab. Sometimes, it’s used for emphasis, similar to “seriously?” or “you’re kidding!” Of course, in the most aggressive tone, it retains its literal meaning and becomes a serious insult. While “malaka” might be thrown around casually among friends in Greece, it’s not a word tourists should use lightly. It could be misconstrued and cause offense.

METRO The fastest and most extensive option of public transport. Three lines connect major landmarks, tourist destinations, and suburbs. Runs daily from 5 am to midnight (until 2 am on Fridays and Saturdays).

MOUTZA Imagine holding your hand up with the palm facing outwards and all fingers spread wide. That’s the moutza gesture, considered the most common and direct insult in Greece. The gesture is often accompanied by a forward thrust of the hand towards the recipient, adding emphasis to the insult. Moutza is a powerful tool in Greek communication, but it should be used with caution. Understanding the context and potential offensiveness is crucial.

NEIGHBORHOOD GEMS Athenians enjoy exploring hidden tavernas, cafes, and parks in their own neighborhoods. This allows them to escape the tourist crowds and experience a more authentic Athenian atmosphere.

NEOCLASSICAL HOUSES Athens is known for its stunning Neoclassical architecture, a trend that emerged in the early 19th century. After gaining independence from Ottoman rule, Athens sought to revive its connection to ancient Greece. Neoclassicism, with its emphasis on clean lines, symmetry, and inspiration from Greek temples, became the architectural style of choice. Neoclassical houses are a testament to Athens’ rebirth and its ongoing connection to its classical past. Check out the Zappeion Hall, the Benaki Museum and National Bank of Greece.

“NEVER ON A SUNDAY” Oscar winning music theme for the movie of the same name. The composer, Manos Hadjidakis, is one of the most favorite Greek composers.

ORANGE TREES Those decorative orange trees lining the streets are beautiful, but beware – the fruit is not for eating! They’re typically bitter.

OWL Throughout the antiquity, goddess Athena and her companion owl served as city and primary coin type. What made the Athenian silver so popular and long lasting was its status as the definition of good money. The modern Greek one-euro coin features the owl taken from the ancient Athenian four-drachma piece, practically the first coin in the history of Europe. Artist Dimitris Kasdaglis draws owls on peebles hiding them in various places in the city, free for finders keepers.

PALAMAKIA Clapping your hands rhythmically. Apart from showing appreciation, it’s also essential for dancing and having fun the greek way. Old greeks used to clap when they wanted to attract the waiter’s attention in tavernas.

PHILOTIMO Greeks are very proud of this word which cannot be translated. It means “the love of honour”, or “doing good”, and it refers to the concept of respecting values. According to ancient Greek philosopher, Thales, “A Greek is not a Greek without it”.

PICKPOCKETS While Athens is generally safe, pickpockets do operate in crowded areas, especially targeting tourists. Be extra vigilant in metro stations and public transportation, popular tourist attractions (Acropolis, Plaka) and busy streets and squares.

QUEER ATHENS The LGBTQ+ community in Athens is vibrant and increasingly visible. Pride events and LGBTQ+ venues are more common than ever. Despite progress, social acceptance for LGBTQ+ people isn’t universal. Prejudice and discrimination can still occur. Areas like Gazi and Psirri have a higher concentration of LGBTQ+ bars, cafes and clubs.

REBETIKA The soulful soundtrack of the Athens underworld. Often compared to the blues, Rebetika originated in the early 20th century among marginalized communities. The lyrics paint a picture of tough lives, with themes of poverty, crime, love lost and hashish use.

RELAX Sipping coffee, not rushing. Athenians frequent “kafeneions” (coffee houses) for leisurely chats, playing cards with friends, or simply scrolling on their smartphones over endless cups of Greek coffee. It’s about savoring the moment, not rushing through a caffeine fix. It’s about slowing down, connecting with loved ones, and appreciating the beauty of everyday life in this
historic city.

SANDALS Leather sandals with an ancient Greek aesthetic are popular footwear in Athens. Ancient Greek Sandals is a highly-regarded brand that offers a wide range of handmade leather sandals inspired by those worn in antiquity. Kyma Sandals are handcrafted in Athens using high-quality vegetable-tanned vachetta leather. Melissinos is a historic Athenian shoemaker established in 1920 that offers a wide variety of handcrafted leather footwear, including sandals with a classic Greek look. They have been a favorite among celebrities for decades, including Sophia Loren and Jackie O!

SIESTA TIME Midday break. Many businesses in Athens observe a siesta, typically from around 2 pm to 5 pm. This allows people to retreat from the midday heat, enjoy a long lunch, or take a nap.

SPANAKOPITTA A savory phyllo pastry pie filled with spinach, feta cheese, onions, and sometimes dill. A delicious vegetarian option.

SUPERSTITIONS The evil eye, a curse believed to bring misfortune, sickness and headache, is a common concern. Athenians might wear evil eye charms for “matiasma” or keep them in their homes to ward off negativity.

SYRTAKI DANCE The famous “syrtaki” dance scene in the movie Zorba the Greek has popularized a specific dance style, though it wasn’t traditionally Greek. It’s more of a tourist performance aspect now.

TAXIS They are yellow, they are everywhere and, compared to other international cities, the rates are still cheap. You should always request a receipt for the amount paid, which should also indicate the taxi registration number and the driver’s name. Athens taxi drivers have, during the peak of the tourist season, a special preference for tourists, leaving loacals struggling in the heat to find a taxi. Opt for safe apps such as Uber and FreeNow. As for tipping, 5 euros is more than fine.

TAP WATER In Greece is fine And bottled spring water is readily available. Nevertheless, do not pay more than €0,50 -1 for O,750L of bottled water.

THEATER Athenians love the theatre and especially to argue about which performance was the best or not - just like their ancient ancestors. In a city with about 300 theatres and with about 1500 performances in each season, one understands that a rich and varied spectacle is on offer. Visitors always have a performance of ancient tragedy at the Herodion on their schedule.

TRANSPORT TICKETS Public transport in Athens is a reliable and budget-friendly way to navigate the city. Single Tickets: Valid for 90 minutes across all public transport options (€1.20 regular, €0.50 reduced).
Multiple & Day Tickets: Consider these for extended travel (€5 for 5 tickets, €11 for a 24-hour ticket).
Tickets purchased onboard buses usually cost slightly more.

VEGETABLES Athens boasts a delicious and healthy cuisine that makes extensive use of fresh, seasonal vegetables. Some popular vegetable dishes: Gemista: A quintessential Greek dish featuring vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and zucchini stuffed with rice, herbs, and sometimes meat. Briam: A hearty summer stew made with seasonal vegetables like eggplant, zucchini, potatoes, tomatoes, and onions, all baked in the oven with olive oil and herbs.

WINE Athens offers a delightful experience for wine lovers, with a mix of local Greek wines and international options. Assyrtiko (crisp white), Agiorgitiko (medium-bodied red), and Moschofilero (aromatic white) are some popular Greek grape varieties you should try. Athens has a thriving wine bar scene, offering an intimate atmosphere and knowledgeable staff to guide your exploration.

WALKING Athens is a city best explored on foot. Its ancient sites, charming neighborhoods, and lively squares are all waiting to be discovered at a leisurely pace. Some of the best walks you can do: The Acropolis and Plaka, the Anafiotika Walk, National Garden and Zappeion Hall, the Philopappos Hill Walk.

YASSOU It is the a very common salute, meaning “hello”. Address a local like that to steal his heart and have him at hello. It comes from “health to you”.

YAMAS “Health to us all”. It’s the familiar greek way to say Cheers!

ZEIBEKIKO A Greek improvisational dramatic solo dance for men. Its name comes from Zeybeks, people of Asia Minor. The dancer is surrounded by other people, who kneel and clap to him. It is a renowned dance for “mangas”, the macho archetype in the Greek poetry of masculinity.

ZORBA While Zorba the Greek is a fictional character from Nikos Kazantzakis’ novel, he’s become an emblem of a certain kind of Greek spirit. Zorba embodies passion, joy of living, and an uninhibited approach to life. These are all values admired in Athenian culture, though perhaps not always expressed as intensely as Zorba does.

Athens wasn’t the host of the first Olympic Games! Those were held in Olympia, in the Peloponnese region. However, Athens did host the first modern Olympics in 1896.

The name “marathon” comes from a legendary Greek soldier named Pheidippides who ran from Marathon to Athens (about 42 kilometers) to announce the Greek victory over the Persians.

Athens, Home of Philosophy. Athens was a breeding ground for some of the greatest philosophers in history, including Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle. Their ideas continue to influence Western thought today.

The rails on the pedestrian pathway at Makriyiannis Street are the remnants of the old Athenian Tram, which stopped operating in the early 60s.

The underground river flowing underneath Monastiraki Square, some of its parts now exposed in sight, is Eridanos river.

The narrowest road is Kallipou street, about 2 meters in width. It is located between Monastiraki square and Kapnikarea, intersecting Ermou Street.

The name of the english nobleman who removed the marbles of Parthenon is Thomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin. Greece strongly believes the marbles were illegally taken and demands their return to Athens for reunification with the remaining Parthenon sculptures. They argue the marbles are integral parts of the monument and their cultural heritage.

About 7% of all the marble produced in the world comes from Greece.

Acropolis Surprise: The Parthenon wasn’t just a temple; it doubled as the city’s treasury, housing vast amounts of gold.

The Presidential Guard (Evzones) in front of the Greek Parliament building at

Syntagma, “rotates” every hour.

European Heat Record: Athens holds the record for the highest temperature ever recorded in Europe - a scorching 48.8°C (119.8°F) in 1977.

Facing the building of the Academy of Athens, the statue on the left is Plato and that on the right is Socrates.

The Columns of Olympian Zeus are the remainings of a “gigantic” Temple dedicated to Zeus. At its time, Olympieion as it was called, it was bigger than the Parthenon, in fact it was the biggest temple in Greece.

The Parthenon’s roof was kept well maintained for more than 2,000 years, until late 17th century, in 1687, when it was bombarded by the Venetians under Francesco Morosini.

The Parthenon wasn’t always a temple. It served as a church during the Byzantine era and even a mosque during Ottoman rule.

The Parthenon’s columns are slightly tilted inwards – an optical illusion to create an appearance of perfect symmetry.

The tallest building in Athens, and in the whole Greece, is the “Athens Tower” at Ampelokipi. Its 28 floor-structure go up 103 meters to the sky.

Athens limits buildings to 12 floors so as not to block the view of the Parthenon.

There are 29 cities in the world named “Athens”, seven of which are found in the United States.

The world’s third leading producer of olives, the Greeks have cultivated olive trees since ancient times. Some olive trees planted in the thirteenth century are still producing olives.

Sometimes the city of Athens is referred to as The Big Olive.

Greece enjoys more than 250 days of sunshine – or 3,000 sunny hours a year.

GRAFFITI

Athens is a paradise for graffiti artists, with a vibrant and ever-changing street art scene. Graffiti is practically unavoidable in Athens, from historic neighborhoods to modern areas. Legal and illegal, the line can be blurry, with some areas designated for street art and others featuring more rebellious pieces. Many works reflect social and political issues, offering a glimpse into the city’s pulse.

THE GREEK DIET

Often referred to as the Mediterranean diet, is renowned for its health benefits and delicious flavors. It emphasizes fresh, local ingredients, balanced portions, and healthy fats.

Key Components

• Olive Oil Reigns Supreme
• Fruits & Veggies Galore
• Whole Grains for Goodness
• Seafood Delights
• Moderate Meat Consumption
• Legumes & Nuts for Protein
• Dairy in Moderation
• Herbs & Spices Add Zest

THE GREEK BREAKFAST

For many Greeks it consists of a quick coffee, “tyropita” (feta cheese pie) and cigarettes on the move. If you’re feeling adventurous though, try a cup of “loukoumades” for breakfast. These are deep-fried dough balls drizzled with honey and cinnamon, a sweet treat to start your day.