What to see

Go to the medieval Paliochora where the ruins emerge between two impressive ravines. Go to Chora and the Venetian castle. Go to the villages Pitsinades and Aroniadika with the old 18th century houses. Follow the path from Mylopotamos to Neromyloi and take a bath in the turquoise watered pools created by the nearby waterfalls. Go to the Agia Sophia Spilaio, west of Mylopotamos. Go to the Amir Ali ravine at Karavas. Take the boat from Kapsali to Hytra, the impressive rock in the middle of the sea filled with grottos. Watch the sunset from the Agia Elessa monastery.

Where to swim

The best beaches are on the east and are the much photographed Kaladi, Firi Ammos and Komponada. In the south you will find scenic coves with crystal clear waters such as Chalkos and Melidoni. Near Avlemonas you will find the very long Palaiopoli beach. To the west you will find the small Lykodimou and Limnionas beach and to the north Platia Ammos.

Where to stay

At Kapsali go to Porto Delfino (+30 31940) and El Sol (+30 31629, www.elsolhotels.gr). At Chora go to the traditional luxury Corte O. Suites guesthousem offering 3 suites, each one with a private entrance and small yard plus a double room (+30 39139, www.corteo.gr). At the Pitsinades Guesthouse (+30 33877, www.pitsinades.com) you will stay in a refurbished old settlement. At the Kythira Town Camping, situated on a hillside filled with pine trees above Kapsali (+30 31580).

Where to eat

At Filio's tavern, at Kalamos, you will try the excellent local cuisine. Go to Sotiris' at Avlemonas for fresh fish. Go to Skandeia for local, Mediterranean kitchen under the large poplar trees. At Minas tavern, at Platia Ammos, try the lobster pasta overlooking the sea. On the Mitata village square, at Michalis, with an excellent view try the coq au vin.

Nightlife

If you are staying in the south, start off at Chora for a relaxed cocktail at the Mercato or Fos Fanari on the central square, with a beautiful view and excellent desserts. As night falls deeper go to Kapsali or the Banda Landra and the Foxanglais. When in the north go to Astikon at Potamos, on the village square for some “peace and quiet” drink.

Area Code: +30 22430

Police: +30 61406

Port Authority: +30 61207

Town Hall: +30 61208

First Aid: +30 61222