By Eleni Psychoulis
Syntagma is a living, breathing entity - a constantly evolving work in progress, always brimming with surprises. From the outset, it has sidestepped clichés: no bouzoukis, woven rugs, Zorba caricatures, Evzone dolls, or prefab souvlaki here. Instead, Syntagma grows alongside us - cosmopolitan, multicultural, reflecting contemporary trends and our shifting concerns.
This isn’t a place that trades in traditional “local color”. Instead, it offers a multifaceted portrait of Greece as it searches for its modern identity within a global context. It’s a crossroads where diverse cultures blend seamlessly, yet the enduring view of the Acropolis remains ever-present.
In Athens’ most fluid and vibrant neighborhood, life flows effortlessly. Whether you’re shopping, window-gazing, strolling at leisure, or running errands, it’s only a matter of time before hunger strikes. Amid an overwhelming variety of choices, it’s all too easy to forget - where was that incredible meal again?
These three addresses are ones you’ll always remember. Reliable, enduring, and ever-delightful, they’ll be there for you next time. Because they never disappoint.
Paradosiako (Traditional)
The Most Club-Like Grill House in town
Is there anywhere else in Athens that buzzes with life, every hour of the day, without pause? At this golden corner of Kolokotroni Street, one place achieves the impossible: a constant line of eager patrons, waiting from noon until the early hours of the morning. For years, Traditional has held its ground here, effortlessly drawing the crowds. Nestled between the outdoor tables of Booze and Noel, its identity might seem to blur at first glance, as if it were part of their eclectic scene. But the packed tables and lively atmosphere tell a story all its own - a vibrant chaos uniquely its own.
This corner forms a seamless trio, a symbiotic blend where boundaries dissolve. It caters to every need in perfect synchrony: a quick drink, a hearty meal, or yet another round of cocktails as the night unfolds. And here, in Syntagma’s endlessly resourceful embrace, it feels natural, effortless.
But heaven help you if a craving strikes for something truly Greek while wandering Ermou Street. The kind of craving that calls for hearty flavors: smoky grilled meats, a soul-soothing plate of giouvetsi, or perhaps a rich, velvety moussaka reminiscent of a “mother’s home cooking”.
In this neighborhood of modern tastes, there is one exception - a standout that has mastered the art of spit-roasted perfection. At Traditional, the kontosouvli alone is worth the wait, tender and steeped in flavor, making it one of Athens’ best. Little wonder the crowd remains devoted.
Here, the air hums with the sounds of mingling cultures. The music spilling out from neighboring bars mingles with the myriad of languages spoken by those in line. Every corner of the world seems to converge here, and every style is represented: couples from Iowa and Budapest, retirees and toddlers, Greek authors and intellectuals taking a break from Rodiakiou café, neighborhood merchants, downtown regulars, and visitors squeezing every ounce out of their one day in Athens.
You won’t find yourself lingering over the décor at Traditional. Its charm doesn’t lie in design details or carefully curated aesthetics - it’s in the people. The tables overflow with a vibrant mosaic of humanity, a living tapestry that shifts and renews itself by the hour. Perhaps that’s what makes it so magnetic.
And then there’s the food. The spit-roasted kontosouvli - crispy and golden on the outside, impossibly tender within - is a revelation, whether you choose chicken or pork. It’s a dish that demands attention, a must-try for anyone who appreciates the pure art of grilling. The burger here is equally noteworthy, crafted from nothing but pure, unadulterated meat. No breadcrumbs, no spices, no extras - just perfection in its simplest form, and one of Athens’ finest.
The liver is another standout. Silky, flavorful, and entirely free of gristle, it arrived at my table prepared exactly as I’d requested, down to the smallest detail. I had fully expected my particular order to be lost in the rush of such a bustling grill, but the chef surprised me. Every nuance of my request was honored, the result a dish cooked to perfection.
The sides are no afterthought, either. The potatoes are real - crispy, golden, and satisfying in every way. The tzatziki is mild and refreshing, the perfect complement to the rich flavors of the grill. For those craving something heartier, the cooked dishes deliver on every front. The kokkinisto - tender meat simmered in a robust tomato sauce - is a highlight, as is the pork shank, accompanied by oven-roasted potatoes that melt in your mouth. And don’t overlook the chicken with okra, a dish that brings a comforting balance of flavors to the table.
Traditional, 59 Kolokotroni Street, +30 210 3231700
Triantafyllo tis Nostimias (Rose of flavor)
Sparkling Freshness Hidden in an Arcade
The soul of Athens reveals itself in its hidden corners - those enchanting arcades where secrets linger just out of sight. Here, tiny, sidewalk-invisible cafés breathe life into the shadows, nestled beside the doorkeepers’ cubicles of old industrial apartment blocks. Within one such pristine arcade, its polished vintage mosaics gleaming underfoot, Triantafyllo tis Nostimias has claimed its kingdom.
This charming haven blends the old and the new with effortless grace. Outside in the arcade, tables draped in classic checkered tablecloths spill into the open air, inviting passersby into a world of warmth and flavor. Inside, the grill takes center stage, while a series of dining rooms offers a quieter, more intimate escape. The interiors, newly renovated, feature a sleek, contemporary design with a subtle nod to industrial chic - a striking contrast to the timeless vibrancy of the arcade beyond.
At Triantafyllo, two distinct worlds coexist. On one side, the pulse of today, modern and dynamic. On the other, the timeless allure of the arcade - a space brimming with color, character, and a hint of nostalgia. Together, they create an experience as unique as Athens itself.
Wherever you choose to sit, one ritual remains constant: your journey begins at the kitchen corner. Perhaps you’ll pause to greet the familiar faces, exchanging a warm “hello” if you’re a regular. Or maybe you’re new, drawn by the vibrant energy and inviting warmth, taking a moment to inspect the fresh fish of the day before making your choice.
On your first visit, it’s the food that brings you here. By the second, it’s both the food and the charm of Triantafyllos himself. A true city-center personality, Triantafyllos hails from Mytilene and is as much a storyteller as he is a host. With service that pairs smiles with ouzo from Arta, your meal unfolds with the kind of effortless hospitality that lingers long after.
As the grill works its alchemy on the fresh, filleted sardines - a house favorite - you’ll find yourself savoring a dish that’s simple yet unforgettable. Served with finely chopped fresh onion and parsley, these sardines are a triumph of flavor.
The experience begins with warm, toasted bread, its golden crust the perfect companion to the fiery tyrokafteri. This spicy cheese spread, enriched with capers and a drizzle of olive oil, sets the tone for what’s to come. Among the appetizers, you’ll find treasures to rival any in the city: homemade marinated anchovies, delicate and tangy with parsley, garlic, and roasted pepper; smoky char-grilled eggplant infused with garlic, red pepper, and parsley; whole grilled squid cooked to perfection; rich, smoky mackerel; and fresh, tender boiled zucchini paired with stamnagathi, those vibrant wild greens that embody the essence of Greek cuisine.
Everything that hits the frying pan emerges perfectly crispy and light, never a hint of grease. The calamari, atherina (whitebait), tiny shrimp, red mullet, cheese parcels (tyropougkia), and fragrant zucchini fritters are all triumphs in texture and flavor, each bite a satisfying crunch.
The grilled octopus is a standout: simple, tender, and with just the right amount of chew. And then there’s the cod - one of the finest in the city, served alongside a knockout garlic mash (skordalia) that brings deep, savory notes to every forkful. Whatever the day’s catch may be, whether gopakia (bogue fish) or kolioudakia (small mackerel), don’t miss the chance to pair it with their must-have fried potatoes - crispy, golden, and utterly addictive.
The only wish I have for you is that you manage to snag a table in time, as on midday the arcade transforms into one big, lively celebration. But by evening, don’t bother searching - Triantafyllo will have closed its petals, retreating into a peaceful stillness until the next day.
Triantafyllo tis Nostimias, 22 Lekka Street, Syntagma, +30 210 322 7298
Hanoi
The Most Authentic Side of Hanoi
On the charming pedestrian street of Petraki, Hanoi stands as the most minimalist Asian spot in Athens. There are no neon lights, no golden waving lucky cats, no seaweed garlands or Asian ribbons decorating the walls. Yet, there’s a subtle art to spotting it - you’ll find it by the line of people waiting outside, eager for a table and a steaming bowl of pho, whether with beef, chicken, or vegetables.
It’s the kind of comfort food that calls to you after a night of indulging in cocktails at the nearby bars. The broth is a labor of love, made by simmering beef bones for twelve hours with star anise and cinnamon, creating a rich, aromatic base. Served with thin slices of beef, rice noodles, sautéed onions, and the bright, fresh notes of coriander, mint, and scallions, every bowl is a symphony of flavor.
Hanoi is the place that proved Greeks have a deep love for soup - a far cry from its common association with colds or hardship. Run by Nicoletta, a third-generation Vietnamese in Athens, Hanoi is a family affair. With parents who’ve been in the food business for 45 years, Nicoletta brings the rich flavors of her heritage to the heart of the city, sharing her passion with every bowl served.
Its secret, aside from the affordable prices, lies in the fact that everything is made from scratch, with care and precision - nothing is haphazardly prepared, unlike the ready-made sauces that many other Asian restaurants rely on.
To guide you through the menu, let me highlight a few favorites, starting with the spring rolls. Light and diet-friendly, they’re filled with shrimp, fresh mint, and crisp sprouts - perfectly balanced in texture and flavor. Equally delicate are the steamed rolls, rice paper wraps filled with a savory mix of pork, shrimp, omelet, and fresh herbs. The banh cuon, sticky rice crepes stuffed with caramelized pork and topped with crispy fried onions, is another must-try. And then there are the dumplings, whether filled with pork or shrimp - utterly charming with each bite.
For those seeking something familiar, you’ll find all the classic dishes you know and love: fried rice, noodles with any topping your heart desires, teriyaki chicken, caramelized pork with sesame, duck with curry and coconut milk, or the timeless favorite with crispy spring rolls.
Hanoi, 12 Petraki Street, +30 213 0451379
